Copyright@kamleshsujata1
By Kamlesh Tripathi (Freelance writer and author)
#Bhulbhulaiya- Do #monuments reflect the ethos of times?
Yes
they do if you hear them intently. I could feel it during my recent visit to
#Bara Imambara (BI), Bhool-Bhulaiyaa (BB) and the tall #Rumi Darwaza (RD) while
doing a book on Lucknow. The tourist guide took me around these signature
monuments to my sheer delight. He coaxed me to listen to what the monuments
hummed and conveyed while standing tall and tanned under the strong summer sun.
Truly, it is, ‘a mirror and reflection of the civilization of its times.’
BI,
BB and RD were constructed by the then Nawab-Ruler of Lucknow Asaf-ud-Daulah
(AUD) in 1784 about whom, it is said: ‘Jis ko na de Maulah usko de
#Asaf-ud-Daulah.’ (AUD grants benevolence even to those, whom Almighty denies-
a catchphrase in the honor of the local ruler) AUD imbibed the ethos and spirit
of #Awadh and converted it into grand edifices catapulting into iconic
monuments around which these civilizations flourished.
He
decided to build the BI for Azadari (mourning), to provide relief to his poor
subjects who were reeling under severe famine of 1783-84. The construction
provided employment to nearly twenty two thousand people at a time, but his
concern did not rest there. To encourage men folk of respectable families who
felt embarrassed working during the day, fearing they will be recognized as
laborers in daylight, the Nawab directed that the construction work be
continued even after sunset, throughout the night, when men could work in
darkness without being recognized. Many, people who worked in the night were
unskilled, work done by them was sub-standard, which was demolished during the
day and re-built by skilled workers next day. Though, this arrangement caused a
lot of wastage, AUD put forth some remarkable points relevant to mankind by
weaving a fabric of #social security system for the society.
Even
today, BI conveys the tale of pain, human suffering and so, is dear to all, as
forefathers of many must have participated in this project cutting across
religion and strata of society. AUD had shifted his capital from
Faizabad-Ayodhya (twin cities) to Lucknow therefore Ram-Raj was not unknown to
him.
The
main hall of the Imambara 50x16 meters is 15 meters tall without any central
pillars or columns supporting it. Is said to be the world’s largest ‘arched room’
without pillars as if conveying it is possible for a society to exist and
survive with each other’s support alone as #Hindu-Muslims do in Lucknow like
the arched room.
Within
the Imambara AUD had also carved the labyrinth … the ‘BB’ which is three storeyed.
It has 489 similar looking galleries without doors, where one can roam
endlessly for hours. But by roaming endlessly you don’t reach your destination.
To reach your destination you require proper direction, it conveys.
The
narrow lanes of BB were carved to confuse enemy intruders during invasions.
Only the King and a few knew the way out just as your Guru or the Almighty
knows the way out in troubled times and keeping the enemy confused is a robust
strategy even today.
These
constricted lanes can make anyone feel lost as you sometimes feel lost in life.
The passages, some of which have dead-ends exhort us to keep moving in life
even during hardships and not to fear dead ends, for it will dissolve in front
of your endurance.
Flights
of steps go up-and-down like a sinusoidal curve. It is steep, dark and narrow.
The sound of the lighted match stick amplifies and seems to travel throughout
the length of the corridor, showing the other end lit up. So don’t worry there
is always light at the end of the tunnel.
A
series of closed narrow passages and intricate network that connects them to
sets of staircases that suddenly change direction, going up or down to confuse.
Only, one correct combination of the staircase when negotiated correctly leads
to the roof on the top. Perfection requires precision like a combination lock,
as only one correct combination of forces take you to the top.
So,
even real life is like a combination lock. All combinations need to work. You
cannot reach the top of BB without the help of a guide who with extreme
perfection takes you up. As also in this journey of life the Almighty holds
your hand and takes you through and through. Next,
The
grand Rumi Darwaza (RD) standing 60 feet-tall, was also part of relief
operations during the famine. It is devoid of wood and iron and outright a
novelty, of its times. When viewed from the West, it looks like a huge Mehraab-
a grand gateway. East is even prettier … resembling a Mexican hat. The three
gates absorb all: the fast, medium and the slow moving traffic, symbolic of the
trait of absorption in human life. Born tall, lives tall and looks prettier
from wide angles. The tough, rough and the dainty mix of personality that human
beings need to imbibe.
AUD’s
caliber possessed the sponge to absorb the ethos of the masses and convert it
into these everlasting golden scripts of brick and mortar. Try it out yourself.
As and when you go close to these monuments they shear off your existing nub of
thoughts and fill you with some gentle self-introspection which only helps you
in re-determining your values. They say values of mankind rarely change, even
over a lifetime.
In
the flux and flow of life if someone were to ask me to describe Awadh of 1784 I
would simply tell him to go and see any movie produced in that era or read a
book published around that time. But sad, movies were not made then and books
were not too prevalent. And, so I may request him to go and visit BI-BB-RD.
I
now never miss an opportunity to visit old monuments and spend some quality
time there as each monument has something to tell you.
(Read 'Aadab Lucknow ... fond memories' to understand the perspective even better)
